Off to Austria — 23/07/2023

This week’s dispatches come from Austria. I’ll be here, just outside of Vienna, for the next three weeks and am really looking forward to trying classic Austrian food outside of a ski resort. All in all, I’m hoping it’s significantly lighter (signs are not positive so far). I’ve also got some really exciting podcasts and articles lined up in the capital so let me know any and all of your recommendations too.

Arrival in Austria

I should explain that during these three weeks I am staying with a host family deep in the Austrian countryside and, as a result, opportunities to eat out are limited to Vienna and a couple of nearby cafés. So far though, I’ve been eating in for every meal

And those meals have been perhaps more stereotypically Austrian than you could possibly make up. Night one? Pretzels and various sausages (frankfurters, wild boar, etc.). Day two? Stroganoff, Kaiserschwarrm, meats, cheese, pastes, and about 15 varieties of bread rolls. Those bread rolls have become a very regular fixture but I certainly won’t be complaining about that.

I must say that those pretzels (homemade) were superb with the extremely generous amount of salt that they really do require to bring out the classic flavour. They were warm out of the oven too for added homeliness. Four varieties of sausages were on offer but the only one I could really get behind was the wild boar. I really could get behind it though with a deeply rich flavour and tinge of chilli making it much more interesting than most. Being in boar hunting country there is much wild boar salami up for grabs too and this black-looking meat is fantastic too.

The stroganoff prepared for us had just enough creaminess to feel indulgent without it becoming sickening and a plethora of mushrooms and spices to infuse the whole thing with a fantastic amount of flavour. Alongside were the pictured roasted courgettes and potatoes. The latter were average but the courgettes were absolutely sensational. I know that I’ve said before that this is one of those massively underused vegetables and here, with the simple addition of rosemary and olive oil, a long time roasting in the oven made them the perfect base for soaking up all of the mushroomy goodness with the meat.

A quick note on bread rolls and pastes now. I’m very particular about my bread, frustratingly so for those who know me, but I think there is little worse than a slice of Warburton’s white bread. Of course, Austria and Germany are famed for their variety of options in this department with Kurbiskern and Sonnenblumen my pick of the bunch. The first of these two is layered with pumpkin seeds inside and out and the second with sunflower seeds. My favourite so far was a roll (picture missing I’m afraid) that combined the two with the intriguing addition of some grated carrot (completely flavourless). Perfectly light and airy with a light and airy centre and not too rock-hard an exterior, it was delightful when stuffed with salted butter, hams, and cheese. Peppersweet Frischkaese is a new discovery for me too (also without a photo). This is a paste with a cream cheese base, mixed with red peppers, basil, and a touch of Chile that everyone here seems to combine with hummus. Personally, I think it’s better on its own but the contrast with the hint of spice isn’t the worst combo.

Podcast

https://spotifyanchor-web.app.link/e/auAz2nS8EBb

I was having a think this week about all things Italian food and the way it has spread around the world in so many different variations and in so many different settings. This podcast then, was the first that I ever recorded, at Bbuona in Oxford. Regular readers already know my love of Bbuona and there are two articles about the place below too. Owner Andi has managed to construct that uniquely Italian mix of homeliness, comfort, and above all quality in his cafe/restaurant that specialises in the ‘pinsa’ variety of pizza dough.

It’s somewhat fascinating to compare and contrast the approach here with some of the other Italian ‘projects’ and chefs that I’ve experienced over the past few years. Sartorelli’s, also in Oxford but this time in the Covered Market, is a rustic street pizzeria concept focussed on a more traditional dough and with freedom to customise things as and how you please. Owner and head chef Magnus might not be Italian be he brings his own decisive beliefs in what can and should find itself on a pizza (pineapple is absolutely banned!).

https://spotifyanchor-web.app.link/e/auAz2nS8EBb

Giovann Attard has brought his very own spin on all of this at the famed Norma on London’s Charlotte Street. Here, he brings Maltese influences and touches and his video episode of ‘Meet The Chefs’ below is a great insight into his vision and cooking.

https://spotifyanchor-web.app.link/e/auAz2nS8EBb

Finally, let’s head stateside. Clearly, America is famous for its Italian-American spin on the Mediterranean cuisine and the perfect exemplification of this might just be Original Joes in San Francisco. I paid them a visit a few months ago and sat down with the chefs and general manager and you can check that out in my San Fran dispatches below!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CrZYVKSIriY/?img_index=1

One more thing…

I’m going to leave you with a thought on sparkling water. Right off the bat, it is something that I love for a couple of reasons. Firstly, if you aren’t drinking tap water, then why are paying for still? It might make me a philistine but I can’t taste the difference. Even better is that fancy feeling it gives you for something so cheap and so healthy.

In England though, we are very much missing a trick. Almost everywhere else in Europe you can find different levels of fizzy water verging from mild to extreme. Here in Austria, I’ve got to say that I’m a ‘super-prickelnd’ man myself and I absolutely love it.

More next week from Austria including fresh podcasts and features from right here in Austria!