Oistins Fish Fry
Every Friday night, something rather extraordinary happens in Barbados. Well, I expect many pretty extraordinary things happen on Bajan Friday nights but for atmosphere, the transformation of Oistins Fish Market into a street-food haven is sensational.
This is the one food recommendation that was universal for me when I told people that I was coming to Barbados and it’s easy to see why. Arriving not long after six, I was instantly hit by the sounds of drums and dancing as stall after stall lined the street. Once you cross over though, it’s like entering a whole other world.
It’s essentially a mini town of restaurants and bars in huts, all surrounding a large stage that goes all night with all manner of acts from Michal Jackson tributes to breakdancing competitions. The buzz here is truly unique and special and the mix of tourists and locals is the same. You really do get the impression that this is one of the few places on the island where both come together in a genuine shared experience. This is something for the tourist market that is authentically local.
Under advice from locals, we ate first and early before exploring after in order to dodge the waiting. Even so, there is plenty of waiting to be done so fear not! ‘Chillin and Grillin’ was our stall of choice, with long communal tables with views of the sea and setting sun.
The value proposition is extraordinary too. At Chillin and Grillin, you pay around the equivalent of £12 for your meal combo depending on what fish you chose. That choice is easy to agonise over but really I think that you are unlikely to be disappointed. I tried the fried fly fish, the salmon, shrimp, and dolphin.
Dolphin, Plantain, Mac Pie
Shrimp were in a traditional Bajan sauce after grilling that was full of typical Caribbean flavours but for me detracted from the taste of the meat itself. Dolphin was definitely a standout though and a total first for me. So often with meats and fish people will try and relate the flavour to another more typical food (‘it tastes just like chicken’ for example). With dolphin though, that really is entirely pointless because the taste is completely and utterly unique.
Shrimp, Plantain, Slaw, Pasta Salad
Lightly rubbed with spices, the flavour of the fish itself is overpowering and has a really unique smokiness and meatiness to it. Other than that it’s a hard one to convey. Texture wise, it flakes much like other white fish but bares no resemblance in flavour at all.
Fried Fly Fish
In that meal combo, you are also able to get coleslaw, pasta salad, tossed leaves, and any two starches of your choice. The slaw was sensational and avoided the problem you tend to get in the UK of it drowning in mayonnaise. On the starch side, I went for plantain and macaroni pie for a fully authentic experience. Plantain is one of my favourite things in the world, pretty much however it is done, but even when I try it myself at home in the UK I struggle to capture the intensity of flavours that I find in the Caribbean. I expect it is down to the freshness of the fruit and this was the best I’ve tasted — large pieces carried so much sweetness, it blew me away.
After that, definitely take the time to wander through the rest of the market. The dancing and spectacle of the whole evening really is something and it’s more than worth grabbing some rum punch and settling in to watch some dancing or attempted singing performances!
There are plenty of fine dining options in Barbados but I’d be stunned if any of them are as enjoyable as a weekend night at Oistins. The party goes on all through the night and although I can’t say that I stayed for that long, it’s one hell of an experience!
