Veselka and bringing Ukraine to New York
There’s so much potential for war to divide and cause ruptures but in New York’s East Village, Veselka is doing the opposite. Ever since its foundation 1954 it has sought to bring a slice of Ukraine to the city and now, with war waging in Europe in its third generation of family ownership, Jason Birchard tells me how he is continuing on that mission with renewed importance.
Walking along 2nd Avenue, you really can’t miss Veselka’s iconic storefront. Whether it’s the huge Ukrainian murals or the line of people waiting for a table at the strictly no reservations location, it sticks out like a pleasantly sore thumb. Inside, the buzz you would expect is more than evident too. Constant turnover of tables and excited diners adds to the atmosphere and the whole thing is surrounded by a decor that is carefully classic and iconic without veering into being dated. The smells oozing from the kitchen don’t hurt either.
Current owner Jason might be the third generation to take the reins at Veselka but he is perfectly clear that that wasn’t always the intention. Originally studying finance, Birchard has come and gone at various points over the years but first entered the operation in 1989 on what he thought was a temporary basis. His first project then was turning Veselka into a 24-hour location and that is something that defines their presence in the East Village to this day. The community that he has established of regulars at all hours of day and night means that the restaurant is quite literally never empty and the stories of wild and wacky customer encounters just keep on coming.
Food wise, Veselka has all of the classics that you would expect of a traditional Ukrainian restaurant. Borscht and pierogi stand out as highlights with a goats cheese variation of the latter a definite favourite of mine. The menu is extensive and covers all the bases from stuffed cabbage to soups, stews, sandwiches and breakfast pancakes. That variety, albeit carefully controlled, is what has enabled Veselka to appeal to such a diverse customer base whilst bringing its own Ukrainian heart and soul to all of the dishes.
Undoubtedly, war in Ukraine has had a seismic impact on Veselka in every way that you might imagine. Whether it be members of staff personally effected or supply chain difficulties, what really stood out to me was not only Jason’s resilience but his desire to be a small part of a solution. He talks passionately about the day of the invasion, the press coverage in the run-up and aftermath, and the groundswell of support from hundreds of people queuing for hours on end to check on the servers that had become like family to them.
Almost immediately, Jason was intent on harnessing the power of Veselka and its food for positive change. As people attempted to give him money and donations, he initially found himself directing them elsewhere before deciding that the restaurant itself had potential to help out. The first step was to direct all the revenue from borscht, by far his most popular dish, to a collection of charities in Ukraine. In face of potential criticism, he personally vetted all of them and in time spun out the programme to other classic and traditional dishes on the menu. When refugees started to come to the US, Jason was desperate to sponsor as many as he possibly could and now up to eight as members of his team.
Covid was a challenge too but Veselka has rebounded from that potential setback as well as anyone could have hoped. Jason had been lucky enough to begin offering at home deliveries through a third-party service just before the lockdown and that was a welcome lifeline for the business when both Jason and his partner fell ill. Now, he has used Veselka’s footprint to set up his own direct to consumer delivery options which swerve the potential loss of revenue when traditional partners get involved.
Going forward, Jason’s plans for Veselka are ever evolving. They have just opened a location at Grand Central station which has seen them capitalise on the return of commuters post-covid lockdown. Menu wise, I don’t expect things to change much and nor should they. The formula here is tried, tested, and pretty perfectly refined. So whilst the future of Ukraine itself and US support might be unclear, Veselka will continue to be a joyous outpost for its culture and hospitality in New York.
Originally published at http://olieatsitall.wordpress.com on December 16, 2023.
